I think that part of the beauty of LLMs is their versatility in so many different scenarios. When I build my agentic pipeline, I can plug in any of the major LLMs, add a prompt to it, and have it go off to do its job.
Specialized, fine-tuned models sit somewhere in between LLMs and traditional procedural code. The fine-tuning process takes time and is a risk if it goes wrong. In the meantime, the LLMs by major providers get smarter every day.
Sure enough, latency and cost are a thing. But unless you have a very specific task performed at a huge scale, you might be better off using an off-the-shelf LLM.
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