On thing you have to consider is the scale at which these shoes are sold at each step. From the factory they're processed and shipped in giant containers. The overhead of handling each shoe is fairly small at that stage.
When it comes to the retailer, there's a huge increase in the amount of work and overhead for each shoe sold. And the labor cost for that work is much higher than on the Asian side of the supply chain. That's also where you get potential waste from returns and discarded inventory and such. The retailer also have their own marketing costs.
I don't find it strange at all that the retailer expects a 100% markup.