Bike Manufacturers Are Making Bikes Less Repairable

How to make your life super easy if shopping for a bike:

- 1 1/8 steerer tube, or maybe tapered

- Threadless a-head headset in any common SHIS type. Threaded ones won’t last as long.

- QR or common thru-axle

- Any common BB standard (threadless ones are actually fine but require a well made frame, and you’d be surprised how many expensive frames are not well made)

- Always a round seat post and get 27.2mm if you can. Bigger if you care about dropper posts

- Rim brakes are fine unless you are doing serious off road. If going disc, hydraulics offer great performance for the price.

- Flat bar shifting components are much more interchangeable and better value that drop bar!

- If going drop bar, consider older 2x11 speed mechanical equipment. It’s much cheaper and it was competitive at a pro level not so long ago.

- External cable routing!

- Aluminium is uncool, but it represents a sweet spot in terms of weigh/cost/durability

- Tyre volume, not frame material, is the most important factor in comfort

- Never buy a bike that doesn’t fit you

These tips won’t get you the best bike (in terms of absolute performance) but it will be reliable, easy to fix and good value.

> - Any common BB standard (threadless ones are actually fine but require a well made frame, and you’d be surprised how many expensive frames are not well made)

I confirm. High-end bicycle here, "only" 8 years old. Full carbon (frame and wheels).

Bottom bracket is now a bit noisy. I went to a shop only doing that brand and...

"Oh but it's a threadless BB, the company doesn't make that anymore. And because it's a carbon frame, it's too complicated/risky to change it. We suggest you buy a new bicycle".

That'd be on a five digits bicycle supposed to be of the absolute best quality. And, well, it definitely has one of these not well made expensive frame.

P.S: had to google the acronyms you used but I suggest everybody here to listen: GP knows what he's talking about.